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Example sentences for "mortises"

Lexicographically close words:
mortify; mortifying; mortis; mortise; mortised; mortising; mortmain; morto; morts; mortua
  1. Near its middle, six mortises are cut at small distances from one another, into each of which is inserted a long bar of wood B B, which moves vertically upon an iron pin, also passing through the middle of the shaft.

  2. After fitting these tenons to the mortises and finishing them, the mortises for the keys should be cut, using a small chisel.

  3. The mortises were cut in the vertical ends and the tenons were left on the long horizontal pieces.

  4. The next step is to cut the mortises for the top and bottom shelves.

  5. The stock for the legs may then be dressed and the bottom mortises marked and cut through the posts.

  6. After the top mortises are cut the cross bottom rails should be halved together and the tenons laid off and cut.

  7. Illustration: Method of concealing ends of back boards] After the case is erected the doors should be laid out according to the drawing for mortises and tenons, and the inside edges rabbeted to give an inset for the glass.

  8. Care must be taken to transfer the marks to the opposite side so that the mortises may be accurately outlined on the face.

  9. Mortises are then to be located, bored, and chiselled up.

  10. Careful fitting of all the mortises and tenons and the usual assembling of the parts of each door before gluing is attempted is a wise precaution.

  11. All like parts should be laid off together and the necessary mortises and tenons cut and fitted, as in the previous case.

  12. The legs are at once cut to length and the mortises laid out, bored, and cut.

  13. It was fortunate they did, as it happened, for it afterwards occurred to the assistant that he had forgotten to allow for mortises and joints.

  14. The reason for this lies in the inability to sink the mortises through the stile (A, Fig.

  15. In this type soft wood may be used, as the large legs and back pieces are easily provided with mortises and tenons, affording great rigidity when completed.

  16. When the mortises have been made they will appear as shown in the enlarged cross section of the leg (Fig.

  17. All the posts, braces and horizontal bars are of 2" × 2" material, secured to each other by mortises and tenons.

  18. The next consideration is, shall the mortises be cut entirely through the piece?

  19. Most important of all is a general idea of places and conditions under which mortises should be resorted to.

  20. For joining together boards at right angles to each other, such as box corners, drawers and like articles, tenons and mortises should never be resorted to.

  21. For instance, in making rebates for hinges, or recesses and mortises for locks, the tool will invariably run crooked, unless it is ground square.

  22. Each kit should have two, as in making mortises and tenons one gage is required for each side of the mortise or tenon.

  23. Tools Used in Laying Out Mortises and Tenons.

  24. It would be of no value to describe and illustrate how a bracket is made; or how the framework of a structure is provided with mortises and tenons in order to hold it together.

  25. Make it a habit to finish off the surfaces and edges true and smooth before the ends are cut, or the mortises or tenons are made.

  26. Another method of securing the teeth in the mortises is to dovetail them at the small end and drive wedges between them, as shown in Fig.

  27. The mortises in the wheel rim are made taper in both the breadth and the width, which enables the tooth shank to be more accurately fitted, and also of being driven more tightly home, than if parallel.

  28. A stout carpenter's chisel that is used for cutting out mortises and similar heavy work.

  29. The height above the wheel requires to be considerably more than that due to the depth of the teeth, so that the surface bruised by driving the cogs or when fitting them into the mortises may be cut off.

  30. The wheel, however, should be designed so that the mortises will not terminate in the arms of the wheel.

  31. The advantage of this form is that the cone at g can be easily turned or ground to keep it true, and the gripping pieces a may be fastened in their mortises by means of the screws shown at h in the end view, and thus kept true.

  32. The cogs should be numbered to their places, and two of the mortises must be numbered to show the direction in which the numbers proceed.

  33. The mortises are first dressed out to a uniform size and taper, using two templates to test them with, one of which is for the breadth and the other for the width of the mortise.

  34. The tenons for the side rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post as are those on the end.

  35. Care must be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the post below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table.

  36. When cutting the mortises take care to get them square and clean.

  37. The four posts are identical and the mortises should be laid out on all four at once so as to get them all alike.

  38. The two short posts are tenoned and mortises cut in the bottom piece for joints and these joints well glued together.

  39. From the tenons mark the mortises in the sides through which they are to pass.

  40. There are two ways of cutting small mortises in common use.

  41. Tenons should be thoroughly pinned to the sides of the mortises as shown in the illustration.

  42. Now make of scrap material the two keys and from them mark the small mortises in the tenons.

  43. Square up the four posts and lay out the mortises according to the drawing.

  44. The mortises in the posts must be cut smoothly and of exact size.

  45. This will necessitate cutting the sides of the mortises very accurately, but this extra care will be more than compensated by not having to bother with the cutting of tenons on each end of the three back slats.

  46. Next prepare the two wide and the four narrow crosspieces, tenoning them to fit the mortises already cut in the legs.

  47. Next, mark the mortises for the slats in the rails, allowing the whole slat to go in 1/4 in.

  48. The rails are tenoned to fit mortises in the legs, and battens are nailed to the lower long rails, to support the flower pots (see Fig.

  49. Cut three mortises in the posts to receive the rails for the side fencing.

  50. If the sticks used to form the legs are rather small, it will be better if the cross bars are kept a little higher on two of the sides, so that the mortises do not meet each other.

  51. There were two mortises throughout every board, that one might be joined to the other.

  52. With forty sockets of silver, two sockets were put under one board on the two sides of the corners, where the mortises of the sides end in the corners.

  53. The pebble joggle joint is formed with the aid of pebbles as small dowels fitted into mortises in the jointing faces of two stones and set with Portland cement; but joggles of slate have generally taken the place of pebbles.

  54. Plugs or dowels of lead are formed by pouring molten lead through a channel into dovetailed mortises in each stone (figs.

  55. Tenons are enclosed in mortises in order that they may be better joined, and they are transfixed with wooden pins.

  56. I--Timber joined in the mortises of the posts.

  57. Moreover, there is in every post, where it faces the shorter post, a mortise at a foot and a digit above the slot; in these mortises of the four posts is tenoned a timber which itself has four mortises.

  58. The dotted lines on the ends of the brace show the tenons for which mortises are made in both post and girt or beam.

  59. Score with the knife point the inner ends of the mortises of Y (n-o).

  60. Lay out and cut the tenons and mortises for the end rails and back rail.

  61. The projections on the other member are called tenons or pins, and the spaces between both tails and tenons are called mortises or sockets.

  62. Many prefer to dig mortises without first boring holes.

  63. Wedges are commonly used in door construction between the edges of tenons and the insides of mortises which are slightly beveled, No.

  64. As in the case of like tenons, if there are a number of mortises all alike, set the gage only twice for them all.

  65. Saw and chisel out the mortises and fit together.

  66. The ends (not the sides) of the mortises may be slightly undercut to insure a tight fit.

  67. Saw with a dovetail-saw on the mortise sides of these lines, chisel out the mortises and fit the parts together.

  68. From the division points of these spaces, a b c, to the right and left lay off one-half of the greatest width of the mortises to be cut out, and also the same distance from d and from e, as at f f f f and g g g g.

  69. Chisel out the mortises taking care to keep the line d-e straight and square.

  70. Mortises in the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions in the drawing.

  71. Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the same time.

  72. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises made in the posts.

  73. Then cut the mortises making them 1/2 in.

  74. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to make the slanting sides.

  75. Illustration: Method of Fastening with Screws] Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of the shelves.

  76. The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the mortises for the rails.

  77. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the shoulders of the tenons, etc.

  78. Next lay out and cut the mortises as shown on the drawing.

  79. Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at once.

  80. The mortises should then be laid out according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in.

  81. These tenons, with the smaller mortises in them for the keys, should be cut first.

  82. Now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and cut them to fit the mortises in the posts.

  83. Illustration: Detail of the Library Table] Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB.

  84. Be careful not to get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick.

  85. If the wood shrinks, or the tenons do not fit the mortises all through, or the glue is deficient, these various portions speedily come to pieces.

  86. The workman is relieved from the necessity of attaining an absolute accuracy in much of the ordinary but essential work of joints, mortises and other operations which can be produced with an uniform exactness by mechanical means.

  87. A pointed block was also used to give the proper shape to the heel; the bars being inserted in the mortises before the ends were brought together.

  88. Both kinds are made without nails, but are fastened together by mortises and lashings and stitches of thong and whalebone.

  89. These are located 36 inches, center to center, on each side of the middle thwart, a distance that determines the centers of the mortises in each gunwale member.

  90. Mortises for the thwarts were next cut and the middle thwart was forced into place, after the spall there had been removed.

  91. Illustration: A Bookrack That can be Made in Any Wood to Match Other Furniture] The end pieces, after being cut to the given dimensions, are marked off and cut out for mortises to fit the shelf tenons.

  92. For the bottom rails, the mortises are made one above the other, the rails being tenoned on all sides.

  93. On the two inner sides of the legs mortises must be cut to receive tenons on the ends of the rails which connect the legs, as shown in Fig.

  94. Mark and cut the mortises (see Mortising) in the runners (Fig.

  95. The thickness of the stock for the seat must be borne in mind when laying out the mortises in the runners.

  96. If mortises cannot be cut in the floor, blocks can be screwed to the floor around the base of each post so as to form a socket into which the post will fit.

  97. Then fit the posts in the mortises and brace them by three braces each.

  98. In this cleat can be cut the mortises for the slide-bars.

  99. Cut these mortises and the drawer can be locked.

  100. If you cut the mortises for the pins before cutting the tenons on the ends of the shelves you will avoid the liability of splitting the tenons.

  101. Care must, be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the post, below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table.

  102. KK, and they slide in corresponding mortises in a piece of 2 by 4-in.

  103. Chisel out the wood between the cuts and in the mortises thus made insert the hand holds.

  104. Care must be taken in cutting the mortises to keep their sides clean and sharp and to size.

  105. To construct, layout the bases as shown in the drawing, making the mortises to receive the bottom ends of the posts exactly in the center, and cut a slanting mortise 6 in.

  106. In making the mortises for the keyed tenons, the length of mortise must be slightly in excess of the width of the tenon--about 1/8-in.

  107. The top is made out of a piece of two-by-four with bevelled mortises cut in two sides of each end as in Fig.

  108. Cut them of correct length to reach from the mortises in the tops of the deck beams to the mortises cut in the tops of the bow and stern pieces.

  109. Then cut twelve pieces of barrel-hoops for =The Deck Braces=, and fit them in the mortises made in the ridge pieces.

  110. Mortises two inches wide and a quarter inch deep should be cut along the top of these ridges, as shown in Fig.

  111. Now take the barrel-hoops which are to be used for ribs, and fasten them in the mortises cut for them in the keelson, bending their ends until they come inside of the gunwales.

  112. These mortises are made to receive the legs, and the angle of the bevel will of course determine the angle at which the legs will spread.

  113. Square off the ends so that it is exactly eight feet long, and then, commencing six inches from one end, lay off mortises for the ribs (see Fig.

  114. These mortises should be cut half an inch deep and the width of the barrel-hoops, and their centres should be spaced twelve inches apart.

  115. Then fasten the ends of the keelson in the mortises cut in the bottom of the bow and stern pieces.

  116. They are put together, with all joints strongly pinned and laid overlapping one another on the foundation, with the tenons on the foot of each post ready to be entered into the mortises in the sills.

  117. Men with handspikes hold back the foot of each post so that the tenons may not slip past the mortises as the huge beams are being pushed up into the air.

  118. The mortises were roughly cut, as if they had been made by a kind of blunt instrument.

  119. In the excavation several large pieces of oak were found, having evidently formed portion of a framework, as the mortises were tolerably perfect.


  120. The above list will hopefully give you a few useful examples demonstrating the appropriate usage of "mortises" in a variety of sentences. We hope that you will now be able to make sentences using this word.