It is used also, as the reader will recall, in making acid hypo for acid fixing.
It is a very heavy cream-colored paper, rough in texture, and giving black tones by development, but designed to give sepia or brown tones on a tinted ground by subsequent toning with a bath of hypo and alum.
The final washing must be thorough, as the hypois difficult to eliminate from both the emulsion and the paper.
With freshly made hypo baths at a suitable temperature there is absolutely no danger of the paper frilling or blistering.
Rinse for a moment, and place the strip in a fixing bath made up by dissolving 3 ounces of hypo in 16 ounces of water.
To secure this, the prints should be specially prepared for toning by being again thoroughly washed, as any hypo remaining in the print will cause spots and streakiness.
How to Make Tint Lantern Slides [144] Purchase some lantern slide plates and fix them in hypo without exposing, in the usual manner, same as you would an exposed plate, says the Moving Picture World.
Remove as much of the paper as can be readily torn off and soak the negative in a fresh hypo bath of 3 or 4 oz.
Develop them into strong prints, thoroughly fix, and wash until you are sure all hypo is removed.
Five minutes' washing with this device is sufficient to remove all traces of the hypo from the film.
Then in washing the developer from the plate before placing it in the hypo it will be clear of the developer, and if one is unlucky enough to let the plate slip into the hypo, drops will not spatter into the developer.
Place the hypo-tray far enough away, and in such a position, that there shall be no danger of getting any of the hypo into the developer.
He would then hypo himself again, and when the ship blasted off to Earth, he would go through the same transition all over again.
After the Doctor gave him the hypo and left the ship, Bowren lay in absolute darkness wondering when the change would start.
In your medicine kit you'll find a small hypo in a red-sealed plastic box.
After washing they were cleared by weak hypo solution.
The hypo of lime does not form a definite compound with silver, like soda; hence it is easily washed away, and this is why the drawings are tolerably preserved after forty years.
This window furnishes light for developing, which will be done upon the table, but none for the shelf below, where the sink is located and where the fixing tray should be kept (that there will be no danger of getting hypo into the developer).
We must always wash the hands thoroughly after immersing a plate in the hypo before handling a fresh plate, as a very few drops will ruin a negative.
After we have prepared the hypo and the developer we are ready to develop the plate.
The "fixing" in hypo will take probably five minutes and should be continued until the white coating is thoroughly dissolved.
The hypo should be in a tray or box placed conveniently at hand but not so located that it will be liable to become mixed with the developer or in any way to splash or spot the plate.
Tell your sister, I don't want to hear any more about selling out and moving, That gives me the hypo whenever I think of it.
I have been quite clear of hypo since you left, even better than I was along in the fall.
The hypocan be put up in half-pound packages, and this quantity of fixing solution prepared at one time.
The developing-trays should be of hard rubber or celluloid, and the hypo-tray of amber glass, so that there shall be no mistaking the developing for the hypo tray.
Make a saturated solution ofhypo and dilute it with an equal bulk of water.
This solution, besides clearing the negative, decomposes the hypo remaining in the film, and a short wash after being taken from it is sufficient.
The most effective strength of hypo solution is half saturated.
Never usehypo after it becomes discolored or turbid and deposits a sediment.
When the plate has been developed it must be washed and then placed in the hypo solution to fix.
With this apparatus the hypo can be thoroughly eliminated from the gelatine film in from fifteen minutes to half an hour.
It is necessary that the hands be free from any trace of silver or hypo when handling these prints while developing, or afterwards when wet, to avoid stains, etc.
The plate should be left in the fixing solution for fully five minutes after it appears thoroughly cleared, then take it out and wash until all traces of hypo are removed.
Fix your negative very thoroughly; leave it in the hypo 5 or 6 minutes longer than it is apparently necessary.
Hypo means less of the negative element than ous; per means more of the negative element than ic.
Hypo stains the negative, and if not thoroughly washed out is apt to form again in crystals and ruin the negative.
The plate should remain in the hypo for ten minutes, so that the salts of silver may be thoroughly dissolved, or the plates will look streaked, and will not make satisfactory prints.
Take the plate from the developer, rinse it thoroughly in clean water, and place it, film side up, in the tray of hypo solution, which is made by dissolving 1 oz.
The hypo was blocking the sensory equipment in other parts of his body, but it couldn't affect the abasic organs if he didn't want it to.
She reached for a hypo needle on the table beside the bed.
Always be particular to place the hypo trays in the same place each time you develop plates, and you will never make the mistake of putting a negative into the hypo instead of the developer.
The trays should be thoroughly rinsed each time after using, so that no trace of hypo from the fixing tray may come in contact with the developing tray.
The above list will hopefully give you a few useful examples demonstrating the appropriate usage of "hypo" in a variety of sentences. We hope that you will now be able to make sentences using this word. Other words: developer; fixer; instrument; soup; syringe
