Propagation is by the formation of newcorms from the parent corm, and by seeds.
No method of cure has yet been published for this pest; it is, however, desirable that only sound and good corms should be planted, for if infectedcorms are placed in the ground it is one certain means of propagating the disease.
Use a light rich soil, and put six to eight corms in a 48-sized pot.
Pot the corms in autumn, and cover with leaf-mould until the roots are developed, when successive batches can be brought forward and gently forced for a continuous supply of elegant flowers during April and May.
The seedlings need not be transplanted, but may remain in the same pots until the grass dies down, and the corms are sifted out in September or October.
Water should be gradually diminished until the foliage dies off, and then the corms will require shade, or they will crack.
As the corms of these Gladioli are small, several may be placed in a 32-sized pot.
Simply put into the ground and left to fight their own battle, the corms sometimes produce splendid spikes of flower, although not so imposing as better culture might have made them.
The corms of these Gladioli are small, and a 32-sized pot will accommodate several.
The lifting and storing of the corms affect the quality of the next year's flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at the most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner.
A strong, glutinous matter within the corms has been used as a cement, hence the plant's other popular name.
But usually several old corms - not always two, by any means - remain attached to the nearest one, a bulb being produced each year until Cain and Abel often join Adam and Eve to make up quite a family group.
Meantime the old corms retain their life, apparently to help nourish the young one still joined to them, while its system is taxed with flowering.
More curious than beautiful is this small orchid whose dingy flowers of indefinite color and without spurs interest us far less than the two corms barely hidden below ground.
The dry coatings having been torn off, cut thecorms transversely in thin slices, and dry, at first with a gentle heat, but afterwards slowly increased to 150 deg.
The corms are ordered to be dug up in the month of July, or before the autumnal bud has projected.
The corms are a most valued food source to the Ojibwe.
The round corms are attached by a tiny rootlet to the main mass of fibrous roots, and are capable of reproducing the plant in a vegetative manner, just as the Irish Potato does.
These corms break away from the root mass very easily so that the utmost care is necessary in digging to get them in situ.
It has long been noted that the old or thoroughly dried corms of the Indian turnip are not acrid like those that are fresh.
It is well known that the corms of the Indian turnip and its allies contain a large amount of starch.
Perennial, propagating from hard clustered corms or bulb-like tubers.
Such growth may be seen if the corms are grown in a deep layer of sphagnum moss, or in a dark room.
Very striking examples of this reaction are offered by the awakening corms of the Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum).
The corms may be covered 2 inches deep in heavy soils, and 4 to 6 in light soils.
These small corms may be taken off in the spring and sown thickly in drills.
The varieties are perpetuated and multiplied by the little corms that appear about the base of the large new corm which is formed each year.
Some tubers are very bulb-like in appearance, as the corms of crocus and gladiolus.
Rich sandy loam and leaf-soil is a good compost into which the corms may be planted, 6 to 9 inches deep, about September.
In outward appearance, many corms are so much like bulbs, that the two terms are interchangeable and loosely applied, at least, among gardeners.
Seeds take about three years to produce flowering corms (see p.
The small corms are covered with netted pale brown coats, from which spring long narrow leaves, and umbels of bright yellow starry flowers about June or July.
The corms of both kinds should be planted in warm sunny spots in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil in the autumn, and a little protection with leaves or litter may be given in cold wet winters.
In less favoured spots, it is safer to lift the corms in autumn when the leaves have withered, and store them in dry soil or sand until the spring.
And yet, examination of the corms will show that the new ones are quite as deep down in the soil, if not deeper, than their predecessors.
Some do this earlier than others, but in all cases, it is a sign that growth has ceased, and that bulbs or corms in the soil are ripe, and will be improved by a period of rest.
The corms are about the same size with netted, brown, silky coats, but are quite distinct from those in the section formerly known under the names of Milla and Triteleia.
The plants formerly known as Montbretia are now also included in this genus, but the corms in some cases (e.
Plenty of sand or grit around the corms is an advantage, and a covering of leaves or litter will keep off cold winter rains.
It has roundish cormsan inch or so in diameter, with brown fibrous coats.
The individual blossoms do not last long, but they are thrown up so profusely from the roundish corms beneath, that they give a continuous glow for several weeks in early spring.
Almost any injury to such vigorous corms as those of the gladiolus and crocus will result in the production of cormels, if care is taken that the corms do not become so cold and wet that they will rot.
If cormels are desired in abundance, the large corms should not be allowed to flower.
These may be lifted and replanted, allowing each in its turn to develop new corms below.
When the leaves become yellow the corms may be lifted and, after drying slightly in a cool airy place, be stored free from frost until planting time.
After flowering, water should be gradually reduced when the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the corms either kept dry in the pots or taken out and stored like those of the Gladiolus.
Corms which have flowered may be kept, and with careful treatment will flower again, although scarcely so freely as young plants.
Out of some sixty species, there are few not worth growing, but corms of only a limited number are purchasable in the ordinary course, and the best of these are named as a guide.
Among our English wild flowering plants, the principal ones furnished with bulbs or corms are to be found in the orders Iridaceae, Amaryllidaceae, and Liliaceae.
The corms should be planted in spring, and treated like Gladioli in pots.
Gladioli should be staked early, and it is desirable to put in sticks when the corms are planted, unless they are in a position where the long stakes will look unsightly.
In this case short sticks may be placed where the proper stakes are afterwards to go, so as to avoid injuring the corms when inserting these.
The tops of the corms or bulbs should be about three inches below the surface.
The corms should be about six inches deep, and are best planted by means of a trowel to form the holes, unless the soil has become too solid, in which case it ought to be forked over before planting the corms.
Beyond putting the corms in the ground, in spring, and an occasional weeding as the plant develops, very little attention is required.
The corms should be put about four inches below the surface, care being exercised at the time of planting to see that they are right side up.
The reason for setting the stakes early in the season is--you know just where the corm is then, but later on you will not be able to tell where the new corms are, and in setting the stakes at random you are quite likely to injure them.
You will find several newcorms in fall, taking the place of the old one planted in spring.
In the case of most corms and bulbs, it is necessary, in order to increase the supply, to separate the young bulbels or cormels and to plant them out in a nursery bed until they develop to a useful flowering size.
About the second week in September, before the foliage has died down, the cormsshould be lifted and thoroughly dried off in a freely ventilated shed.
If they flourish with you their seedlings will appear naturally; otherwise you had better buy new corms when you want them.
You can also lift them in June, and separate the young corms from the parent one; but you must not expect these very small corms to flower the following year.
If we place some of our crocuscorms or snowdrop bulbs in pure water, they will grow and flower just as well as if we had planted them in the garden.
The food store in bulbs and corms is the same as that in seeds," said Tom.
Bulbs of snowdrop and tulip, and corms of crocus, can be bought from seedsmen, from September to January, at from 6d.
That, like the seeds which we grew in water, bulbs and corms contain a store of food," said Frank.
It is grown in quantity in Holland, but as the corms are so very small, not more than half an inch in diameter, one does not see large stretches.
It is said that as many as a thousand good corms can be raised on two square metres of land, so naturally it is sold cheap.
The above list will hopefully give you a few useful examples demonstrating the appropriate usage of "corms" in a variety of sentences. We hope that you will now be able to make sentences using this word.
